A work colleague who has just got his motorbike license asked me the other day how to get into track riding, and even though there are plenty of other ‘tips for track days’ information out there I thought I’d go right back to the beginning for, well, the absolute beginner.
Why should I do it in the first place?
Learning how to corner, brake and accelerate properly is part of the beauty of motorcycling, and the better you can do it, the faster, smoother and safer you can ride. One of the questions I still grapple with though is where the limits of braking and cornering lie (not so much acceleration since I only ride smaller capacity bikes that are unlikely to throw me off for grabbing too much throttle out of a corner), and that question can tempt us to push limits to see how far we can go. Watch a MotoGP race with riders getting their elbow on the tarmac around corners and it’s tempting to go out and cut loose in the hills.
Public roads are not, however, racetracks. Yes, I was young once and did the odd silly thing on public roads (*cough*) too, but the road really isn’t the right place to test the limits of your skill, your bike’s grip and the laws of physics. Aside from road surfaces covered with potholes, gravel and oil, you’ve also got The Man packing far more sophisticated technology, and you’ve got all manner of very hard objects on the side of the road ready to exert some fatal G forces through your body if you mess up. Oh, and plenty of cars too.
Even when you factor in the cost of track riding, it is still far cheaper than either a handful of speeding fines, or the cost of putting wheelchair ramps throughout your house. It will help you learn more about the limits of you and your motorcycle, as well as giving you full license to cut loose without worrying about losing your license.
When should I start thinking about track riding?
I reckon as soon as a rider is comfortable with the basics of riding then it’s time to start thinking about it. No, don’t go out there if you’re still trying to get your clutch, gears, brakes and throttle all working together, it will be more demoralising than anything and probably dangerous to boot. Once you’re feeling like the fundamentals are all embedded in muscle memory though then you’re good to go.
How do I get started?
This is the trickiest bit, and I’m going to start talking specifically about South Australia now, but it would be worth looking around wherever you are to see if the story is similar. Back in the day, there were no options to get on a track without a proper setup (which I’ll talk about later), but these days we are lucky to have at least one option through the popular Brekky and Bikes events at our flagship track at Tailem Bend. This ‘taster’ event doesn’t need the full protective gear needed on a ‘proper’ track day as it is a single 20 minute session behind a pace bike, so anyone with a bike and their standard road bike protective gear is good to go. Wherever you are, it is worth looking to see if there are any ‘come and try’ events like this that don’t need the full kit to get going. This will let you work out whether or not being on a track lights your fire or not without spending a heap of money, but I’ll make a bet now that more often than not you’ll want more once you’ve had a taste…
It’s also worth checking if there are any rider training courses that are done on a track in your state. My first time at Mallala was with a Stay Upright advanced skills course, something that is unfortunately not offered any more in SA. This was another great option to firstly get some help with skills and get a chance to look at a track for the first time.
Ok, I want to do a proper track day, what do I need?
Most tracks (in Australia at least) will have similar requirements for riders, which are at a minimum:
- A motorcycle;
- Full leathers, either a one-piece or a two-piece that zips together; and
- The rest of your standard protective gear – boots, gloves and helmet – that you should already have because if you don’t then you shouldn’t be on a bike in the first place.
Will my bike be fast enough though?
Unless you’re riding a postie bike then odds are yes, you’ll be fine. I’ve seen plenty of 250cc bikes out there on track days, some with L plates attached too. Track day groups are graded, and at the start you’ll be plonking yourself in the beginner group anyway, so don’t stress. Given time, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as being on a smaller, slower bike and being able to take corners faster than Old Mate on his R1.
What about leathers though?
Yes, you’ll need them. As in they won’t let you on in your kevlar jeans. Gumtree, or even *shudder* Facebook Marketplace is a great place to find second-hand leathers. Head into your local motorbike shop and try some on first if you like to get an idea of the right size, then go hunting for something second hand. Bonus points for one day going back to that same bike shop and getting a new set from them when you’re ready to upgrade from your second hand ones. You’ll find one piece suits are generally cheaper, but they are also less versatile (you’re unlikely to wear them anywhere other than the track – sitting in a coffee shop looking like the gimp is as conspicuous as it sounds, trust me on this) and they suck when you need to go to the toilet in the middle of a track day. Set yourself a budget of $500 and you should find plenty, and if you’re lucky you might even find a set for more like $300. If you can’t stomach the thought of wriggling into someone else’s sweaty leather then set aside a grand and wait for the sales to happen.
What other protective gear do I need?
While you don’t need a pair of $600 top of the line track boots, you will need something that covers ankles, that can be done up over the top of your leathers, and sturdy enough to not fall to bits if you’re sliding down the tarmac at 100kmh. Same goes for gloves – they should be sturdy and they should absolutely not be able to be removed easily when fastened. As for the helmet – as long as it’s legal for the road it’ll be fine for the track. If you’re buying new, set aside perhaps $250 for decent boots and $100 to $150 for good gloves. Second hand is an option for gloves and boots too, but the lower cost compared to leathers plus the grossness factor of buying second hand boots often outweighs the savings.
What about my bike?
If your bike is in good condition, regularly serviced and has reasonable tyres in good condition then you’ll be good to go. Even middle-of-the-road sports touring tyres will give you plenty of grip when you’re learning the ropes on the track, so don’t think that you need to shuck out hundreds for mega sticky rubber. Make sure your bike is running well, isn’t leaking any fluids, your chain is properly tensioned and you’ve got air in your tyres and you’ll be fine.
Ok, I’ve done all those things – what now?
The next thing to do is find a track and book in a track day. If you live in an area that only has one track within reasonable driving distance then there’s your answer. If you have multiple tracks like here in South Australia then do some googling to research prices, track layouts and events. Here in SA I’d strongly recommend people starting at Mallala, which is cheaper (under $200 for a day), smaller, slower and just generally more relaxed. Once that one is getting boring, then The Bend is far more challenging, but is also more expensive (more like $300 for the day) and with 17 turns (compared to Mallala’s 8) you will spend your first day just trying to remember where you’re going. If you’ve got a trailer, you might want to think also about a longer drive, like here in SA where a five hour drive to Mac Park will give you cheaper rates and some wonderful country hospitality into the deal.
Pro tip when booking is to hold out until the weather forecast is close enough to be comfortable with the weather on the day. Wet track days are not a great way to start, and for me I reckon that a temperature between 18 and 28 maximum on the day is doable, with the ideal being in the low twenties and with a little cloud cover.
How do I get there though?
This is where things fork a little, as you’ll either need to ride your bike to the track, or put it on a bike trailer and tow it there. The former is cheaper, but the latter is far better in many ways.
I’m going to ride there – now what?
Definitely the cheapest way to go, particularly if you only have a bike and not a bike and a car, but you’ll need to pack smart. If you’ve got a top box or panniers (that can be removed when you get to the track) then you’ve got bit more leeway, but if not then you’re going to want to think carefully about what you put either into your backpack or into the little area under your seat. Remember you’ll be riding there in the gear you’ll ride to the track, so some of the things you’ll want to pack include:
- Wallet, keys, phone, charger etc
- Earplugs (best investment of a few dollars you can make)
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- Painkillers
- Food (if you’re not planning on buying at the track)
- Gaffa tape (I’ll come to this later)
- Wet wipes and/or a rag to clean your visor
I have a car and a tow bar, should I tow my bike there?
If you can afford it, yes.
It’ll mean you can take a lot more with you, be more comfortable on the day and not have to have the long ride home in your sweaty leathers will a body buzzing with adrenaline, attempting to get your knee down at every roundabout.
But, there are a few considerations. You’ll need to add in the cost of a hire trailer for a motorbike, or at least a 7×5 cage trailer and a ramp – ask your local Kennards or similar and be prepared to add on another $50 – $150 to the day. You’ll also need to factor in the cost of some good quality tie downs ($40 – $80 for a set of four) to tether your bike for the trip, and if you’ve never done this before then I’d suggest calling in That Friend Who Is Into Track Days to help you do it the first time. A ‘handlebar tie down’ (Google it) is also a brilliant investment in making tying a bike to a trailer faster, easier and safer for $25 on eBay. Also expect that you’ll need a helper to get your bike on and off the trailer for the first few times at least. You don’t want to end up as a YouTube vid (‘Dumb rider tries to get bike on trailer with HILARIOUS results’), and it really is far easier with two people. When you get to the track, odds are someone will offer to help you unload if you’re alone, but if not then don’t be afraid to ask – track day folk tend to be very willing to help.
I’m towing to the track, what else should I bring?
If you’re towing to the track then even if you’re not bringing the full kit (I’ll talk about that later) you’ll have the chance to bring a bunch of other things to keep you comfortable, including:
- Chair
- Portable shade of some sort
- Extra jerry can of fuel
- Toolbox
- Water and food (cheaper and more reliable than whatever will be available at the track)
The other big bonus is not needing to spend a full day in your leathers. The day will be far more comfortable all round.
So what happens on the day?
The first tip for the day is to get there early. There is seriously nothing worse than finding out that the ‘slow’ group will go out first and you’re still standing in line with your forms with five minute to go. When the time comes you want to be calm, prepped and ready to go, not frantically rushing to the starting line.
There will be forms to be filled (bonus points for doing them beforehand), fees to be paid (same again, save time and do it all online) and bikes to be scrutineered. Scrutineering is a basic check of your bike and helmet to make sure they are safe for the track. The things they’ll look for are:
- Fluid leaks – big no-no to dump fluid on the track
- Nothing loose, including fairings and exhausts
- Brakes – working and without worn out pads
- Throttle – return ‘snaps’ back into place after being opened
Depending on the track you’re at, there may also be a requirement to cover some/all of your lights, indicators and mirrors with tape. This is usually for a few reasons:
- Taping up mirrors stops you looking behind you and trying to second-guess the movements of the person behind. When you’re on the track, all that matters is what’s in front – it’s the responsibility of the person behind to overtake you, not your responsibility to try and get out of their way.
- Taping up brake lights stops annoying all the riders behind you seeing where and when you’re braking, particularly if you’re new to the track and braking everywhere.
- Other lights and glass to stop debris going everywhere on the track in the unlikely event you come off.
Check out what everyone else is doing and follow suit, ask someone else or just head to scrutineering and explain that it’s your first time – they’ll help you out (and probably tape up any bits you need taping up to help out the new kid).
If there is an air pump at the track (or you brought your own) it is worth dropping the tyre pressures lower than on the road, which will give you more grip on the good surface of the track. Your mileage may vary, but I tend to shoot for 28 – 30psi in each when hot (more on that later).
After scrutineering there will be a rider briefing where they’ll explain any local rules, and after that it’s time for a sit down, relax and wait for your group (which if you’re in the beginner group will either be first up or last on). Sometimes there will be an additional briefing for first timers that will talk through the layout of the track and what to do. There will usually be a five minute warning, at which time it’s earplugs in, helmet on, gloves on and follow the rest of the riders to the entry point to the track…
I’m on the track! I don’t know what I’m doing!
The first time out on the track can be a little scary. Even in the slow group, speeds will quickly become faster than on the road. There may be a couple of laps with yellow flags out (which basically means ‘take it easy’), and this is the right time to let tyres warm up and generally get a sense of where the track goes. For the love of all that is holy, don’t be that person who tries to get the knee down on the first corner on cold road tyres, throws their bike down the track and stops the session for fifteen minutes while the remains of the bike are trailered off. Most track days will have four or five sessions of twenty minutes each, so take the first session easy. Don’t worry if everyone is overtaking you, just stay cool and work into the fun of not having to worry about speed limits, road hazards and poor surfaces. Don’t overthink it, just go out there and enjoy.
Eat small and drink lots (of water) between sessions. You’ll probably have the better part of an hour between sessions, so take that time to hydrate, check your bike for tyre pressure and that everything is still holding together under the stress you’re putting it under compared to the road. Chat with your fellow track day riders. Bonus points for finding other noobs who will also be walking the line between fear and exhilaration.
As the sessions go on, watch for fatigue, and don’t get sucked in to doing that one last session even though you’re tired and not thinking clearly – that’s a good way of having a mishap. The day is about enjoyment, not doing a marathon, and any track day you can ride away from is a good one.
Come the end of the day, the drive or ride home will feel painfully slow, as will the day afterwards at work. Everything will move in slow motion. You’ll have sore muscles that you never knew existed. Life’s problems won’t seem so big any more.
Ok, first one done, what next?
With the first one out of the way, the question comes soon – what now? Even doing one track day will help you learn that you can brake harder and learn more in corners than you thought possible. Taking your road bike on the odd track day is probably fine, except for the extra strain you’ll be putting on all components (expect to need it serviced more often at least for oil changes), the wear you’ll put on tyres and the unpleasant reality that your insurance won’t cover you if you damage it at the track. It will ultimately be a matter of passion versus finances as to whether you look at a dedicated track bike, but it can be a great way of having a bike that you aren’t so worried about if you have an incident.
This is also a good time to start thinking about getting some track coaching. Yes, another additional cost, but a coach will follow you around on track, check out your technique and help you on your way to being a better rider on the track and on the road.
Once you’re moving into dedicated track bike territory you’ll also start thinking of track stands, tyre warmers and a bunch of other stuff to take to the track to improve your times, but don’t get sucked in to thinking that any of these are necessary – just getting out there is a start.
So that’s that. Starting off with a setup cost of under a grand for protective gear (assuming you have a bike) and another couple of hundred for a cheap track day, you can get out and start doing it. From there, the sky is the limit in terms of how much you want to spend in your pursuit of speed. For many though, including this almost fifty year old beginner, speed isn’t the main game – it’s far more about being able to improve technique, enjoy perfect riding conditions, have fun and meet like-minded people.
One final tip – a set of cheap eBay skins to wear under your leathers will mean you don’t need to be extracted from your leathers by a team of people armed with shoehorns at the end of the day. You’re welcome.